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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.