Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.